The manufacturer from Le Brassus has just shown a whole range of new models prepared for the first half of 2023. Among them, among others: the redesigned CODE 11.59 in steel and a ceramic version of the original Royal Oak Offshore.
A few days ago, in the snow-covered Le Brassus (less than 60 km from Geneva), Audemars Piguet Replica presented some of this year’s new watches. For several years now, the manufacturer has not exhibited at any large industry event, emphasizing its independence not only with the distribution format (its own boutiques, called AP House), but also with the presentation of new watches. AP does it in its own style, consistently relying on history, icons and watches that have yet to achieve this title. Here are, in our opinion, the most interesting of the new AP models.
CODE 11.59 in steel
Let’s start with probably the most controversial watch in the AP portfolio. I remember well the first time I saw the debut of the CODE 11.59 collection during SIHH Geneva in 2019. I remember because my dismay matched that of others watching, although I was not nearly as fierce in my criticism as some. The fact is that CODE 11.59 turned out to be an absolute revolution, which was a general shock for a brand so strongly associated with specific watchmaking aesthetics (i.e. Royal Oak). However, the collection was defended from the very beginning by the CEO of AP – Francois-Henry Bennahmias – guaranteeing its future success and development with further models and improvements.
You could read what I think about the CODE 11.59 concept itself and how I rate this watch in the extensive review of the Chronograph model HERE. Previously available only in precious CODE materials, now for the first time it will be offered in a steel collection that perfectly suits the sporty character. There are six new references in total – four made entirely of steel and two made of a combination of steel and black ceramics.
Audemars Piguet, together with guilloche expert Yann von Kaenel, designed a concentric, three-dimensional pattern that is embossed on the basis of a hand-made matrix. There are three color options: khaki green, blue “Blue Nuit, Nuage 50” and gradient beige. The first two (with a PVD coating) will be offered in fully steel models, the beige (galvanized) one is dedicated to the ceramic model. The dials also received a new, more subtle internal bezel, with a minute or tachymeter scale and simple, superimposed hour indices.
There have been no changes (apart from the new, gold rotor) in the mechanical side of the watches. CODE 11.59 Selfwinding is powered by the automatic caliber 4302 with a 70-hour power reserve. The Selfwinding Chronograh is an in-house caliber 4401 with the same reserve. All watches are fitted with new rubber straps with a fabric-like texture, calfskin lining and a steel buckle.